VFTP - Mark Spratt at the 2011 Tour of the Himalayas

After what was in fact a very pleasant flight from Birmingham to Islamabad Mel, Matt Page, Rickie Cotter and I were met by Ammar, part of the local organisational team. In addition to being able to pass for a professional cricketer Ammar was an excellent host, setting a standard we soon realised was to be the norm. A short drive from the Airport through some interesting traffic and we arrived at Khurram's house on the edge of Islamabad. Khurram is the driving force behind the Tour of the Himalayas, a race he dreamt up to promote tourism in Pakistan, increase sporting achievement amongst the locals and most of all to support the Kaghan Memorial Trust. This trust (the KMT) is dedicated to providing high quality education to children in an area devastated by an Earthquake in 2005. Even 6 years on the effects of the earthquake are clear to see along the Kaghan Valley with people living in tents and roads and bridges still being rebuilt. 80,000 people died during the earthquake leaving many children without families. Whilst the roads and bridges may still be under construction the Kaghan Memorial Trust has already built and opened a school and now educates some 200 boys and girls, employing both well paid local teachers and overseas volunteers. 

Much of the above we learnt whilst sharing tea with Khurram at his house as we waited for team mate Rob Friel plus competitors from Holland and Slovakia to arrive. Then suddenly it was time to leave and head north for the 6 hour drive to Shogran in the Himalayan Kaghan Valley.

Pakistan is certainly no place to use car rental as driving there requires both skill and faith in equal measure. Triple overtakes into oncoming traffic are common place on single carriageway roads and cows, goats and dogs regularly wander across even the busiest roads. However, despite the apparent chaos we saw no traffic accidents and arrived safely at our mountain hotel in Shogran, albeit several hours later than scheduled.

The following morning we rose late for breakfast, assembled bikes and headed out for our first taste of Himalayan mountain biking. The hotel was situated at the halfway point of the final day's stage, a 14km, 1700m hill climb. Team UK opted to ride to the top, get a feel for the altitude and take in the views. The road up followed a muddy jeep track, steep and tricky in places but for the most part relatively straightforward. Topping out at 3200m however we all felt a little short of breath. We were accompanied for much of the ascent by some of the Pakistani racers, clearly extremely fit given the basic bikes they were easily matching our pace on. Once at the top we headed across some fun singletrack towards a grassy meadow that was to be the finish point of the race. As we approached the meadow I followed Matt into a rocky descent with no clear path. Matt rode through the section cleanly but as I followed him my front tyre snagged, burped and I was flipped over the bars. I tucked and rolled, landed hard on rocks, felt my bike clip me as it flew over my head then watched it complete 3 somersaults as it bounced down the slope. 2 weeks on my hip is still stiff and I'm certain I have a broken rib but at the time my first thought was for my bike. "Game over?" Fortunately it was in one piece and I was able to gingerly remount and continue riding, though that evening I thought long and hard about what could have happened and how far from a hospital we were. I resolved to take no unnecessary risks and let the bruises be my reminder.

Back at the hotel we were able to meet the other competitors. In addition to the 5 of us from the UK there were strong teams from Slovakia, Holland and Denmark plus 2 mixed nations teams comprising Germans, Mongolians, Canadians, Austrians, New Zealanders, South Africans and Australians, then 3 further teams from Pakistan. It was clear that whilst all in our team were competent we couldn't match the Palmares of some of our competitors with World Cup Racers, National Champions and former Tour de France riders amongst them. We resolved to just have fun and not take the racing too seriously. This was about the experience, right?

Race day 2 was essentially an XC race, albeit 52km long and at 3200m. We felt this would suit us better than the pure climbing days and hoped to pull back some of the deficit. Following a thrilling jeep transfer to Lake Saif ul Maluk we posed for photographs and lined up for the race. As the race started Rob, Matt, Mel and I all moved towards the front, alongside the Slovakian winner of day 1 Martin Haring, the 2 Mongolians and Irjan the World Cup Racing flying Dutchman. The course wound around a beautiful lake surrounded by snow capped mountains, an incredible venue for an XC race. The terrain was also worthy of an XC race, with rocky climbs and descents, stream crossings, steep climbs and singletrack descents. Our technical riding skills immediately made themselves apparent as this small group moved away from the other competitors. Rob was battling for top 3, Matt not far behind and only 100m in front of me, whilst Mel was close behind. Early in the first lap the flying Dutchman Irjan took flight but landed poorly, sadly ending his race. The Mongolians struggled with punctures and mechanicals but their loss was our gain as Rob moved into second, Matt third and me 4th. However, the altitude was to get to me again and after 6 laps I once more felt as though I'd bonked and was passed by firstly Nathan and then Mel. It's not often Mel passes me in a race and this was the second time in 2 days but watching her ride so well and so far ahead of the other women made me very proud. I finished that day 6th with Mel 5th (and first woman), Matt 3rd and Rob 2nd. We knew we'd had a good day but we'd have to wait until the evening meal back in Shogran before we'd find out how good - we now led the race by 44 minutes, Mel was the leading woman and Rob was 3rd man.

The final day was the 1700m hill climb. Whereas the previous 2 stages had been ridden blind and were at altitude stage 3 was a known quantity for me, having ridden the 2 halves in a total time of 1 hour 50 minutes. Given that the start was at 1400m I thought I might do better on this day and felt reasonably confident. As soon as we set off however reality dawned and I watched Matt and Rob storm off with the leading group whilst I struggled to stay with Rickie and Mel. As the road wound upwards and the sun beat down Rickie gradually moved ahead in what was to be a stage winning ride, overhauling Lisa the stronger climber from day 1. Mel's goal was not to win the stage but to minimise the time gaps and retain the overall race lead. She had a 16 minute lead over 2nd placed Steffi and expertly kept her within sight until the last 2km when Steffi opened a small gap. In doing so Mel was clearly pushing hard and made life for me very difficult as the elastic started to stretch. 

She's ahead again! Photo: KMT/Asif Kanji

Great rides that day by Rob, Matt and Rickie gave Team UK the overall lead and Mel's performance meant she was the leading woman on general classification, with Rickie 3rd woman and Rob 3rd man. My own times were not included as I was the 3rd man each day. I partly expected this going into the race as Rob and Matt are both stronger riders than me, but whilst in practice the final stage had taken me 1hour 50 total, on race day it took 2hours 19, half an hour lost to altitude. Still, we were there as a team so I could at least share in the victory celebrations!

That evening a prize giving party was held with incredible food from a Pakistani barbecue, traditional music and dancing. We received a huge cup, plaques and, ironically for a country that has no word for punctual, clocks from the Cycling Association. The Ministers spoke again and pledged large sums of money to the Kaghan Memorial Trust and committed to holding the race in 2012.