Mark Spratt (One Industries / Cardiff Jif / Exposure Lights) was a member of the British team that competed in this years edition of the Tour of the Himalayas. Here is his view from the pack:
"Even as a child I dreamt of visiting the Himalayas and once I started mountain biking it became the ultimate destination to ride my bike. The Himalayas however were for me India, Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan and I'd never considered Pakistan as a Himalayan destination even though (as I've recently discovered) the country contains 5 of the World's 14 highest peaks. So when I saw the article on the Tour of the Himalayas on xcracer.com it was the photo of riders in snow-capped mountains that caught my attention with Pakistan being a secondary, perhaps slightly troubling, attraction. Fortunately Mel was equally keen and we both applied for the team and happily were successful.
As the race date approached a few obstacles made it clear this wasn't a typical holiday destination. Visas were required, insurance cover uncertain and Pakistan International Airlines ("Perhaps It Arrives" as we heard it referred to) reputed to be "unadvisable". On top of this there was a certain irony in flying to Islamabad and transferring via Abbottobad on the 10th anniversary of 9/11. My concerns were minimal, Mel's slightly greater but her father's - well, I just better make sure I bring her home safe!
It ain't bad in Islamabad
After what was in fact a very pleasant flight from Birmingham to Islamabad Mel, Matt Page, Rickie Cotter and I were met by Ammar, part of the local organisational team. In addition to being able to pass for a professional cricketer Ammar was an excellent host, setting a standard we soon realised was to be the norm. A short drive from the Airport through some interesting traffic and we arrived at Khurram's house on the edge of Islamabad. Khurram is the driving force behind the Tour of the Himalayas, a race he dreamt up to promote tourism in Pakistan, increase sporting achievement amongst the locals and most of all to support the Kaghan Memorial Trust. This trust (the KMT) is dedicated to providing high quality education to children in an area devastated by an Earthquake in 2005. Even 6 years on the effects of the earthquake are clear to see along the Kaghan Valley with people living in tents and roads and bridges still being rebuilt. 80,000 people died during the earthquake leaving many children without families. Whilst the roads and bridges may still be under construction the Kaghan Memorial Trust has already built and opened a school and now educates some 200 boys and girls, employing both well paid local teachers and overseas volunteers.
Much of the above we learnt whilst sharing tea with Khurram at his house as we waited for team mate Rob Friel plus competitors from Holland and Slovakia to arrive. Then suddenly it was time to leave and head north for the 6 hour drive to Shogran in the Himalayan Kaghan Valley.
Pakistan is certainly no place to use car rental as driving there requires both skill and faith in equal measure. Triple overtakes into oncoming traffic are common place on single carriageway roads and cows, goats and dogs regularly wander across even the busiest roads. However, despite the apparent chaos we saw no traffic accidents and arrived safely at our mountain hotel in Shogran, albeit several hours later than scheduled.
The following morning we rose late for breakfast, assembled bikes and headed out for our first taste of Himalayan mountain biking. The hotel was situated at the halfway point of the final day's stage, a 14km, 1700m hill climb. Team UK opted to ride to the top, get a feel for the altitude and take in the views. The road up followed a muddy jeep track, steep and tricky in places but for the most part relatively straightforward. Topping out at 3200m however we all felt a little short of breath. We were accompanied for much of the ascent by some of the Pakistani racers, clearly extremely fit given the basic bikes they were easily matching our pace on. Once at the top we headed across some fun singletrack towards a grassy meadow that was to be the finish point of the race. As we approached the meadow I followed Matt into a rocky descent with no clear path. Matt rode through the section cleanly but as I followed him my front tyre snagged, burped and I was flipped over the bars. I tucked and rolled, landed hard on rocks, felt my bike clip me as it flew over my head then watched it complete 3 somersaults as it bounced down the slope. 2 weeks on my hip is still stiff and I'm certain I have a broken rib but at the time my first thought was for my bike. "Game over?" Fortunately it was in one piece and I was able to gingerly remount and continue riding, though that evening I thought long and hard about what could have happened and how far from a hospital we were. I resolved to take no unnecessary risks and let the bruises be my reminder.
Back at the hotel we were able to meet the other competitors. In addition to the 5 of us from the UK there were strong teams from Slovakia, Holland and Denmark plus 2 mixed nations teams comprising Germans, Mongolians, Canadians, Austrians, New Zealanders, South Africans and Australians, then 3 further teams from Pakistan. It was clear that whilst all in our team were competent we couldn't match the Palmares of some of our competitors with World Cup Racers, National Champions and former Tour de France riders amongst them. We resolved to just have fun and not take the racing too seriously. This was about the experience, right?
Rambo Rickie Cotter makes friends
The next day we rolled down the hill to the final stage start, the School this was all in aid of. The children were having their sports day and we were invited as guests of honour. Visiting this school was one of my most emotional moments in recent years and was an amazing experience. The children were fascinated by our bikes, our lycra and our pale skin and we all enthusiastically cheered them on at running, long jump and tug of war. As guests of honour we handed out prizes to the winners before getting back on our bikes and riding the 8km back to the hotel along a narrow metaled road that climbed 1100m.
Another meal, another sleep and it was transfer day. In theory we could have ridden in the morning but heavy rain led to a lazy, sociable morning. Bikes and bags were then loaded onto trucks and minibuses and we began our journey up the Kaghan Valley to Naran where we were to spend the next 2 nights. The devastation caused by the earthquake was more apparent as we travelled to Naran and our drivers did an excellent job in driving across roads I would certainly not risk my VW on. Once at Naran we checked into our motel style accommodation before meeting for dinner and our first exposure to the Pakistani press.
Nice Jerseys!
During the dinner Khurram talked briefly about the Kaghan Memorial Trust and the race and local ministers also greeted us and endorsed the race. Each team was presented and we were given team race jerseys - finally team UK would look like it meant business! Khurram chose to keep the race details low key in advance to minimise any risk from anti-Western sentiments but that evening there were as many photographers and reporters as cyclists and they were to be with us for the next 3 days, enthusiastic participants throughout the race.
Climbing the Babusar Pass - I left part of me on this road
With the morning came the first race day. An early start and a minibus transfer to Jalkhad from where we would climb to the top of the Babusar Pass and back in a 60km loop that took us from 3100m to 4200m. We had been warned to expect bad weather at the top of the pass and it had snowed overnight, so team UK all packed gilets, waterproofs and arm and leg warmers. These precautions seemed well justified as we lined up behind Nathan Dahlberg, the most experienced Himalayan racer amongst us, wearing what appeared to be 7 or 8 jumpers. As it turned out the weather that day was unusually good for the whole ascent and the clothing precautions were unnecessary but the overnight snow meant the course was changed, meaning there was no technical mountain biking, purely fire road style climbing and descending. This may have been a blessing for me as despite feeling good at the start and keeping close to Matt, once we reached 3500m I was hit by the altitude and felt as though I had bonked quite seriously. From this point on I watched Matt pull away and was then passed by first Rickie and then Mel. I reached the top feeling exhausted, then turned round for the 30km descent back to Jalkhad. I made up one place on the descent but every muscle in my body ached until I climbed off my bike exhausted. This was going to be tough! That night we learnt that we were in 4th place, 20 minutes adrift of first but only 7 minutes behind 2nd. Positions were based on the times of the best 2 men and best woman in each team and our 4th position was largely down to a great ride by Rickie, finishing 2nd woman. This prompted Khurram to ask whether in the UK women did all the work!
Group photo at Lake Saif ul Maluk
Race day 2 was essentially an XC race, albeit 52km long and at 3200m. We felt this would suit us better than the pure climbing days and hoped to pull back some of the deficit. Following a thrilling jeep transfer to Lake Saif ul Maluk we posed for photographs and lined up for the race. As the race started Rob, Matt, Mel and I all moved towards the front, alongside the Slovakian winner of day 1 Martin Haring, the 2 Mongolians and Irjan the World Cup Racing flying Dutchman. The course wound around a beautiful lake surrounded by snow capped mountains, an incredible venue for an XC race. The terrain was also worthy of an XC race, with rocky climbs and descents, stream crossings, steep climbs and singletrack descents. Our technical riding skills immediately made themselves apparent as this small group moved away from the other competitors. Rob was battling for top 3, Matt not far behind and only 100m in front of me, whilst Mel was close behind. Early in the first lap the flying Dutchman Irjan took flight but landed poorly, sadly ending his race. The Mongolians struggled with punctures and mechanicals but their loss was our gain as Rob moved into second, Matt third and me 4th. However, the altitude was to get to me again and after 6 laps I once more felt as though I'd bonked and was passed by firstly Nathan and then Mel. It's not often Mel passes me in a race and this was the second time in 2 days but watching her ride so well and so far ahead of the other women made me very proud. I finished that day 6th with Mel 5th (and first woman), Matt 3rd and Rob 2nd. We knew we'd had a good day but we'd have to wait until the evening meal back in Shogran before we'd find out how good - we now led the race by 44 minutes, Mel was the leading woman and Rob was 3rd man.
CaliforniDutch Miel enjoying the ride
The final day was the 1700m hill climb. Whereas the previous 2 stages had been ridden blind and were at altitude stage 3 was a known quantity for me, having ridden the 2 halves in a total time of 1 hour 50 minutes. Given that the start was at 1400m I thought I might do better on this day and felt reasonably confident. As soon as we set off however reality dawned and I watched Matt and Rob storm off with the leading group whilst I struggled to stay with Rickie and Mel. As the road wound upwards and the sun beat down Rickie gradually moved ahead in what was to be a stage winning ride, overhauling Lisa the stronger climber from day 1. Mel's goal was not to win the stage but to minimise the time gaps and retain the overall race lead. She had a 16 minute lead over 2nd placed Steffi and expertly kept her within sight until the last 2km when Steffi opened a small gap. In doing so Mel was clearly pushing hard and made life for me very difficult as the elastic started to stretch.
The Maillot Jaune looking happy
As we entered the final 2km the intense sunlight from earlier gave way to freezing hail and in minutes the trail turned to a mixture of ice and streaming water. The hailstones themselves felt like paintball pellets and for days afterwards I had small bruises across my arms and legs. As the visibility deteriorated and the trail changed Mel questioned the route and turned back towards me, losing only a few seconds herself but giving me a chance to catch up. The final part of the stage was approximately 1km around the meadow, now completely white as the hail continued to beat down. On crossing the finishing line we rushed into tents and were handed coats and coffee by the support team, most of them donating their own clothing to keep us warm. Briefly it appeared that the mountains may have beaten us as some riders sat shivering, struggling for breath and unable to warm up following the cold and exertion. A fire was lit, feet were rubbed and more clothes shared and suddenly every rider had finished, the hail had passed and we were all able to make our way back to the hotel.
She's ahead again! Photo: KMT/Asif Kanji
Great rides that day by Rob, Matt and Rickie gave Team UK the overall lead and Mel's performance meant she was the leading woman on general classification, with Rickie 3rd woman and Rob 3rd man. My own times were not included as I was the 3rd man each day. I partly expected this going into the race as Rob and Matt are both stronger riders than me, but whilst in practice the final stage had taken me 1hour 50 total, on race day it took 2hours 19, half an hour lost to altitude. Still, we were there as a team so I could at least share in the victory celebrations!
That evening a prize giving party was held with incredible food from a Pakistani barbecue, traditional music and dancing. We received a huge cup, plaques and, ironically for a country that has no word for punctual, clocks from the Cycling Association. The Ministers spoke again and pledged large sums of money to the Kaghan Memorial Trust and committed to holding the race in 2012.
The Victors!
So, whilst we had said we were there for the experience and would just enjoy ourselves, once the racing began we wanted to win. However, the result was very much secondary to the whole experience. The areas we visited were incredibly beautiful and I feel privileged to have raced in such locations. The competition was serious yet very friendly, the accommodation as comfortable as you could wish for and the organisers exceptional - it was in fact the life of a professional racer for a few days. I did suffer with "Delhi Belly", the altitude hit me harder than I expected and my wife beat me 2 days out of 3 and in the overall classification but visiting such a place is a humbling experience in any event, so I think I can deal with coming 2nd."
Photo credits: Mark Spratt, Matt Page, Asif Kanji.